In Sicily the bun is called tuppo and the cap of this celestial brioche looks like a tuppo! I have not yet discovered when, how and by who invented the form, which makes the difference, of this sweet-savoury bread.
I used to just eat it, dreaming I could make it. In fact, unfortunately, I do not have a recipe handed down. In recent years, however, I have started to work. So, without historical information, after research, trials, failures, I present my perfect recipe.
Maritozzi, croissant and… with tuppo!
The brioche in Italy is presented in many ways from maritozzi to croissant.
But there is a certainty: the brioche with tuppo is only Sicilian. Piece after piece (pizzuddo dopo pizzuddu) it is dipped in the soft granite. Try to cut it in half and you will see that it turns into the soft container that welcomes the delicious, creamy homemade ice cream. By pulling away the tuppo and using it as a teaspoon, you can enjoy the cold dessert, little by little.
The tuppo brioche is poetry. In my memory is Marina ice cream, it’s the one in Montalbo street, hand in hand with my grandfather, the homemade granite in the summers spent at the aunts’, the snack at school, the first feasts at elementary school. In the savoury version it is the giant brioscione that my mother patiently emptied to fill with every good thing.
This simple but laborious recipe (and certainly very slow) returns scents and flavors that were a little lost. This, unfortunately, is now a constant, since the handmade products is sold too much and too often to remain a craft product.
Try these brioches, they are delicious and very soft. The effort in mixing and the long wait will be wonderfully rewarded by the scent that is released, the yummy but delicate taste, the soft texture, the pleasure of eating them freshly baked. And maybe dip them in milk coffee or chocolate.
Sure, you need to get up a little early, but trust me, at least once it’s worth it. I recommend, even if you own a planetary, surrender to the sublime joy of the handmade dough.
Enjoy yout brioches with tuppo!
Ingredients (for 10 brioches):
- 250 g Manitoba flour
- 250 g of flour 00 sieved
- 50 g of caster sugar
- 10 g fresh yeast
- 4 medium eggs at room temperature
- 75 g of soften chopped butter
- 170 g of semi-skimmed milk
- 10 g of salt
- 10 g of honey
- 50 ml of milk
Dissolve the yeast and sugar in a little bit of warm milk and wait for it to become active. This means that it will have to emit some bubbles, which usually appear on the surface in about 10 minutes, also making a certain noise of effervescence.
In a little more milk, melt the salt.
Use a large bowl to create the flour well and put eggs in the centre. Add the yeast mixture and the honey and start kneading. Transfer everything on a well floured surface and continue to knead for at least 10-15 minutes energetically. You must try to pull and fold, or give elasticity to the dough. At this point add the remaining cold milk and also the milk containing salt.
When all is well absorbed, add the butter and knead for at least another 10 -15 minutes until it is perfectly incorporated.
The dough may be a bit soft, don’t worry: the important thing is that the dough is so elastic that, if pulled, it doesn’t tear.
Put it in a bowl and cover it with the cling film put in contact with the dough.
Store it in the lower part of the fridge for 18 hours. After this time bring it back to room temperature for 1 hour, then transfer it gently on the pastry board rolling it up slightly.
Make big balls for the base and small balls for the tuppo (the little cap). Any loose edges must be fold under the base.
The balls must have the same size, to maintain a uniform cooking.
I chose 80 g for the base and 15 g for the tuppo, but you make them as big as you like. I suggest not to make them bigger than this size: the smaller the better.
Create a small recess in the center of the big ball, it will be the housing for the tuppo. Place it on top by pressing lightly. Place the brioche spaced well between them on a plate, lined with paper, and put again to rise for 5 hours in the oven turned off with the light on.
Then create a mixture of yolk and milk. Evenly painted taking care not to exceed, otherwise the golden cover will be too thick and hard.
These brioches have a perfect alveolature: a culinary term borrowed from geology, which indicates a well kneaded and leavened product, in which there are many tiny and dense niches of air.
The tuppo brioches are very good especially on the first day, but I ate them with satisfaction even the third day. As you may have noticed, I prefer them without any other aroma than that of its basic ingredients.
A genuine and buttery taste, with a slightly salty tip that goes beautifully with the sweet one.
Buon appetito in the sign of ancient tradition and family warmth.